Archive for February, 2010

February 13, 2010

I close my eyes each night, content
and sigh and dream the day again.
I trace the sun across the sky
the azure minutes, each complete.

How sweet time’s taste
my mind rolls against,
again and again, my day re-lived,
burned into my eyes
and burned into my skin.

I would surely believe it,
To think the sun
had stretched its minutes,
Hanging in the sky for us,
I would surely believe it.

I close my eyes each night, content
and sigh and dream the day again.

This Way

February 13, 2010

-Are you ready to go?  Should be good today…no wind, but the swell is cracking.  You sure you want to try this?

-Oh…hey….um yeah sorry….I didn’t hear you.  Come on downstairs.  Just give me a minute….you sure you want to do this?

-You got enough wax on your board?

-You got the cash?

­-Alright?  OK, let’s go.  We have to walk over to the rocks and jump in from there.

-OK, good.  Just sit down on the bed for a minute.  I have to get this ready first.  Roll up your sleeve….right or left?

-Just take it easy over the rocks and hold on.

-Try and relax and I’ll explain what’s gonna happen.

­-Now, you have to watch the waves and try and time it so that when you jump you clear the rocks.  As soon as you hit the water, paddle as fast as you can and try and get out the back before a big one smashes you.  Got it?

-Hmmmm….let me see.  We’ll use your left, but they’re both fine.  Bite down on this.  This is a short needle.  I get them from the pharmacy.  I prefer these to the long ones.  Now just lie back and relax.

-I’ll go first and you follow me as soon as you think it’s good.

-OK, just close your eyes.



-This way!

-…all done.  That’s it.

-Paddle! Paddle paddle paddle! Faster!  Go go go!

-Sit up.  You’re going to cough as it hits your heart.  It will feel like it’s going up your throat.  Breathe and relax.  Breathe…..

-Nice work.  You’ve made it through the hard part.  Now just pick a wave and hang on for the ride.  I told you you could do it.  Well done….

-Keep breathing and get used to the feeling.  Just hang on.  You’re gonna have a great night tonight.  Trust me….

-Alright I’ve had enough for one day.  I’m heading in.  See you on the beach?  Just watch out for the rocks on the way in.  Steer to the left.

-All good?  OK, you should be fine now.  Just take it easy and don’t panic.  You’ll be fine…just be careful driving your car.  There’s lots of cops out tonight, especially around this area.

-Well done man, very well done.  See you tomorrow?

-Cool, no problem.  See you tomorrow?